Saturday, October 22, 2011

Eurotrip 2.0: Day 3,4,5 - Berlin!

The train from Munich to Berlin was a fairly comfortable one. About 60 euros for a sleeper ride that was about 10 hours. We deliberately took a train that takes longer so we could sleep more. As the train started to approach Berlin, I remember some rather foggy bogs and horror-movie-set like dark, empty fields. Fingers crossed, hoping for bright & sunny weather in Berlin!

Berlin Hauptbahnhof (the main train station) though was anything but dark - a 5-floor mega structure with trains coming in and leaving at different levels, bustling eating places with people stuffing themselves with breakfast, and best of all, a glass front façade that helped the sunlight spectacularly illuminate the entire building!

We had booked ourselves into Wombats Hostel, which one of Berlin’s best rated ones. It was indeed impressive with a classy yet cool reception area, 6 floors worth of clean rooms and a nice bar on the 7th. The folks at the reception were quite resourceful and had answers to pretty much all our queries.

The plan for the day was to do a ‘Free’ Walking tour of the city. We took a day pass for 2-5 people for ~15 euros so we could use any train or bus for the entire day upto 3am the next day. Only later did we realize that we could have taken a 3-day pass for much less and saved some moolah.

The ‘Free’ tour is actually free, but the guide calls out quite clearly that they ‘work on a tips-only’ basis and you’re pretty much ‘supposed to’ give a tip at the end of the tour. The group size is about 25 people, and a 5 euro per head tip means that’s a cool 100-150 euros for our ‘free-tour guide’ for 4 hours of walking and talking stories about each monument! Of course you could just give him 2 euros at the end of it, but wanting to demolish images of ‘chindi’ Indian tourists, the three of us paid a massive grand total of 15 euros. The trip also serves as segue for several ‘paid’ trips that our guide never failed to mention once every 20 minutes.

How was the tour? Well, it was alrightish, led by a humorous guy named Sebastian, who spoke QUITE a bit! We started with the BrandenburgerTor at Paris Platz - A nice ‘little’ gate on a nice little square with the Goddess of Victory (formerly Goddess of Peace) on top of it. It was the anniversary of the re-unification of East & West Germany and there were bands playing behind the gate which was not open to the public on that morning. Right next to the Paris Platz is the hotel where Micheal Jackson famously held out his son from the balcony. Room rents can go up to 15,000 euros a night. I mean, really? It doesn’t even have like a stunning view, duh!

Then there was the Jewish memorial, a photo of a soldier jumping over the Berlin ‘wall’, a car park which was formerly where Hitler’s quarters were, a memorial to the dead ‘sons’ in the war (both the Jews who were massacred as well as the soldiers of Hitler’s army – lives lost, are lives lost, I really liked the concept), Charlie checkpoint, a gay king’s palace, and that of his brother’s, a couple of museums and a restaurant where we had a snack break. Sebastian told us some interesting stories behind every monument/landmark/non-landmark and since I wasn’t exactly taking notes, I hardly remember any of it. But it was fun while it lasted.

The sun was really beginning to belt down and Sebastian’s humor was starting to turn into a bit of a rant. We wished it was over sooner rather than later and finally we got done by around 3. I was quite famished, and once done, we rushed to the nearest restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet and helped ourselves to a sumptuous meal.

We headed back to the hostel, got some rest, took a shower and headed back out for dinner. Berlin has innumerable good restaurants and bars to choose from and we didn’t go too far from our hostel, which itself is in quite a good area, and had a good meal. With me trying to keep off meat, it was usually a pasta or, at most, a fish dish that would be on the menu, with always a new beer to try. I found a particular liking to the taste of the dark beers and quite enjoyed sampling them at every meal (Yes, quite the ‘drunkard’ I was).

Berlin’s pubs are deserted till about 11, or so said many sources, so we drifted into one just after 12. It was called White Trash and was just a 2 minute walk from our hostel. Some really random music was on, and they for some reason I will never understand, had a screen showing some soft porn. We had a beer each and moved on to another place. Turned out later it was actually a café… The next place, was actually a pub with college-goers dancing away to glory completely out of sync with the music. I looked at them and went “Hahhaha! Idiots!”, at the same time realizing that I was laughing at myself 3-4 years ago doing the exact same thing J. The beer continued to flow, and after I was sufficiently sleepy, I made a beeline for the hostel and fell into a deep slumber almost just before my head hit the pillow.

The next morning started with the project of finding an awesome breakfast place. Out came the Lonely Planet Guide 2008 and we were off on this walk. And we walked, and walked, and walked. We must have gone up and down the same street some 7 times I think. Finally we figured the place had closed down. After all, it was the 2008 edition of the book, and the recession had since come and not quite gone! So we ended up having breakfast at around 12, and it was a cheese and salmon overload as our hungry stomachs gorged on anything in sight!

Then, while the ladies took a tour of this place, I took a 2 hour nap on the grass under the sun, contemplating the meaning of life & such. It was also the moment when I realized I should be writing my blog entries lest I forget what all has happened. So I headed back to Wombats to write this blog and the ladies went off to see a Nazi concentration camp! I had no intentions of doing that; it was way too creepy for me!

Dinner & drinks was further away from the hostel this time, in a place called Kurfurstenstrasse (I hope I got that spelling somewhat close to what it is)! We walked out of the station and felt quite out of place, as the place was teeming with ‘escorts’ just standing pretty much in the middle of the road. We walked for about 10 minutes to get to our destination – Einstein Café. The desserts were outta the world and we filled our tummies with unlimited quantities of raisins, ice-creams, and such. Not very friendly on the pocket, but I guess it was worth the walk.

We then headed up to catch a glimpse of the Reichstag by night. It is a truly imposing structure and has a huge open garden right in front of it. This is what I loved about almost all the buildings in Berlin – they were huge, magnificent, built by probably fairly megalomaniacal rulers, and they completely and utterly dominated the surroundings they were in. And they stood in complete contrast to the drab, aesthetically not-so-pleasing buildings of Capitalist backgrounds in the Western half of the city.

That was end of day 2 and day 3 was going to be a trip up to Potsdam, about 1 hour from Berlin to see a pretty little castle. I wasn’t too impressed with the place, but it was a bright, sunny day and good time to just soak in the atmosphere. We came back the hostel sometime in the evening and our stay in Berlin was about to come to an end. But not before we had made the long walk along the East End Gallery which has some really cool paintings on the last remaining piece of the famed Berlin Wall. It was an absolute delight to walk this stretch at night (it was about 9 pm), with absolutely no one around and a cool breeze floating around. I also saw my first spots of rain on this walk and I guess it was a sign that winter was just round the corner. My gloves, monkey cap and jacket were about to come in really handy in Prague & Krakow!

The train to Prague was at 5 in the morning and despite my relative lack of sleep in the days before, I was up, excited and wide awake in wonder as the train rolled by mountains and rivers and forests and about the most awesome train ride one could ever have!!

Eurotrip 2.0: Day 1,2 - Munich Oktoberfest!

My train to Munich from Darmstadt was slated to leave at 8.37am and reach in 3 hours and 37 minutes. Talk about being sticklers for time!! It’s a wonder the Germans don’t add seconds as well to their timings! I didn’t have a reservation (as is the case usually for anyone traveling by the Deutsche Bahn as its not really ever ‘full’), so 1 hour into the journey a whole bunch of people were standing as they had quite clearly overbooked the train. I went past the Hockenheim station which reminded me of the Hockenheim race track that I so used to love (driving on my F1 2000 PC Game) for the endless straights!

As the train climbed towards Munich, the beautiful German countryside was on full display! Bathed in sunshine (probably for the last time in quite a few months), the pine forests and agricultural fields rolled by…

The entry into Munich station was fairly undramatic, and it looked like a cleaner version of CST station (!!) at around 5 in the evening on a weekday. The rush was of course for the last summer weekend and the last 2 days of the OktoberFest!!

By the time I stopped at the tourist info shop, bought my train tickets and made it to the hotel, it was nearly 3pm! Its best to take a day ride ticket in Munich, and if traveling in a group a group day ticket for 2-5 persons (9.80 euros). But after 2 days of roaming around I didn’t remember anybody asking for the ticket. I’d imagine the adventurous ones would opt not to buy one or buy a cheaper one and pass it off as another.

Once Richa & Tanvi were also in and ready, Munich awaited!

Saturday 4.30pm, and the agenda was quite clear. Get into the Oktoberfest and get out on Sunday morning. The crowd, as we reached the ‘English Gardens’ was maddening! The Oktoberfest has several ‘tents’ and each tent can house more than 2-3000 people I’m sure…! There’s the usual fare of giant ferris wheels and rides which will make your stomach really woosie, but ALL of that was to be for *after* of course!

As we excitedly got into the line of one of the tents, after about 1 hour of waiting, we realized something was amiss. The line wasn’t moving, and the 2-3 people that were getting in in about every 10 minutes were all holding some tickets!! This was NOT good news. Mustering courage to go and talk to a massive guard, we asked him what the scene was? And when were we going to get in? He replied, in typically curt, to the point, economical thickly German-accented English “NEXT YEAR.”… I was shocked! Surely there’s not SO much of a crowd that they can’t let people in!?! Tent after tent it was the same story. Hordes of people queuing up only to realize that they weren’t going to get in! I sensed the making of a disaster, that I went allll the way to Munich and did not get into the Oktoberfest!!

Someone suggested that our best bet was to come and queue up early next morning. Disheartened, but with the determination to not go back ‘empty handed’, we swore to try our luck again the next day. But before that we still had the entire evening to walk around the main Marineplatz area of Munich. Its absolutely littered with cafes and bars and people are out having a fantastic time. We had a relaxed sit-down drink followed by dinner. By the time we headed back to the hotel, it was nearly 2am and the early morning next morning looked ominously impossible!

My jetlag was luckily still not completely gone, and I woke up sprightly as a prairie dog on a savannah morning, at 6 a.m! After several minutes of pestering so that everyone was up, we finally got ready and were out by 7.30! It was 8.15 by the time we reached, and the crowd in the train just made my heart beat that bit quicker. It was going to be touch & go…! As we entered the festival grounds, the difference versus last evening was quite clear. The crowd was much lesser, but there were huuuuuge lines in front of EACH tent. We picked the first one and just joined it. Fingers crossed. We waited for about 15 minutes, and then there was a huge collective roar. The gates were open… What was going to happen? Were they going to ask for tickets? Were we going to go back ‘dry’ from the OktoberFest???

Within 2 minutes, literally, the entire line had emptied out into one of the biggest tents you will ever see. With rows upon rows of tables & chairs, much like a school mess!

And we were IN!

No questions asked.

We just went and grabbed the seat closest to the entrance and swore never to let go! After about a 10 minute wait, the band started, to a thunderous roar from the crowd!

The waitresses in their Bavarian dresses swarmed in with the first round of stuff to eat before the beer. White sausages are supposed to be the specialty but I didn’t quite feel up to trying one. I got more of the salty vegetarian stuff and a fish sandwich.

And then, came the beer. In tall glasses of 1 litre each, with a waitress carrying upto 6-7 at a time! ‘Prost!!’ we shouted, and off the mark we went! Within a few minutes, we witnessed our first ‘entertainer’.

So basically, anyone can just stand up on his table and announce to the rest of the crowd that he’s going to go ahead and down his, or her, beer in a single go! Luckily the first one to do it was sitting right next table to us, and as he started, the roar from the crowd was unbelievable! As he swiftly gurgled down his 1 litre (mega-) glass, the crowd went ballistic! THIS is what I had come for. NOT for the 400 different kinds of beer. NOT to see the Bavarian women (well ok, a bit, yes :P ).

And then another went up and downed one. The cheers kept getting bigger. The loudest ones were, of course, reserved for the women. There were a couple of guys who also lost their way mid way and they were greeted with laughs and boos. I’d imagine these people would be pretty scarred like for life! J Surely, their friends would continue to take their case for some time to come!

Now the beer was flowing and this is where my memory starts to fail me. The period from the end of the 2nd litre of beer to lunch at 4pm is QUITE hazy. I remember, hmm, lets see, the pavement…, the metro ride…, and an inordinately long time in some toilet.

Then there was the BMW Museum and the hugely impressive OlympikStadion! On a clearer head day, I’d probably have been able to appreciate these EVEN more than I ended up doing. That said, Munich left me with some fond, fond memories.

Next stop, Berlin!

Eurotrip 2.0 : Day -3,-2,-1 - Frankfurt & Darmstadt

As my flight touched down at Frankfurt airport, there was almost a sense of déjà vu. Bright sunshine reflected off the humongous metallic building. It seemed for a moment that I was at the Hyderabad airport. (Bummer! :D) But that sense quickly disappeared as the size of the airport dawned upon me. The flight bays were there far & wide into the distance. As I marveled at the sheer scale of things, the lack of creativity, colour and focus on function over form was also immediately apparent. A 7-foot-tall police officer then stopped me (being one of the very few non-German/non-EU looking people coming out) and checked my visa and waved me on. Traveling without check-in baggage was a huge bonus as I was out of the airport in less than 15 minutes.

My pickup was waiting for me and it was a nice and BIG Audi with a pleasant driver. We were on the Autobahn towards Basel in no time, and the car zipped along at 150+ km/hr without the slightest complaint from the engine or the suspension. A right turn to Darmstadt off of the Autobahn and the ride was over in less than 20 minutes.

There was time to kill till the evening and I had a drink and went for a walk. The city was quite minimalistic with hardly any people around, and some rather boring looking buildings. I walked up to the central ‘platz’, as squares, I took it, are called in Germany. When you look at some of these squares in Germany you feel as though they really didn’t have any space constraints when they built them. Very unlike Bombay, and quite similar in fact to New Delhi.

Dinner & jet-lag induced sleep and early wake-up later, the next two days of meeting went by in no time.

On an evening walk on the 2nd day, I stumbled upon the railway station and promptly booked my ticket to Munich! Oktoberfest awaited! :-)